Ten-Minute Cooking

Many years ago, Edouard de Pomiane wrote an engaging book called French Cooking in Ten Minutes.  I have loved that book for decades -- more for its ideology than any recipe in particular.  Reading it gives you a sense of being "present,"  and at the brink of cooking-in-the-moment.  The book calls for quite a few ingredients culled from the cupboard, cans and such, but I was thinking of all the fresh recipes one could make gleaning the season's best ingredients from the farmer's market.  Those gorgeous tomatoes?  In ten minutes I sliced a whole platter of them, drizzled on extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt and ground cumin, then showered the arrangement with a blanket of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.  (I have recently discovered that umami-laden tomatoes have great affinity with cumin.)  Or how about a lovely pea soup laced with wasabi and mint, buttermilk and shallots?  I love the purple scallions now available at the Union Square Market and have taken to simply sautéing a pan full, with bits of prosciutto to pour over a filet of broiled bluefish. My dear friend, Arthur (the food maven), has taken to eating "crudo" at home -- thin slices of raw tuna drizzled with his best olive oil, lemon, hot pepper and salt.  You can make my 500-Degree Cod with Macadamia Butter & Radicchio in 10 minutes and roast an entire sheet pan of plump mussels at the same time.  And this is the season when nothing satisfies quite like a big juicy sun-dried tomato burger or a sirloin steak topped with Magic Green Sauce -- you must try it -- recipe below!  This sauce, which transforms almost anything -- from a simple grilled chicken paillard to roasted asparagus to a pan full of soft-scrambled eggs (also from the farmer's market), takes only minutes to make and four simple ingredients.

Ten-minute desserts are also exciting.  Soon will come the joy of pairing fleshy peaches with fresh basil (and a splash of peach schnapps), and fragrant strawberries under a blanket of freshly-made emerald green mint sugar.  I just brought home a quart of berries which my family loved -- you can tell by their color -- almost purple -- that they were going to taste great.

With a nod to Pomiane, I offer, in my book Radically Simple, more than three dozen salads, perfect for this time of year, in a chapter simply called "10-Minute Salads." 'Tis the season.  Check it out.

Magic Green Sauce (from Radically Simple) From a platter of tomatoes to a juicy charred steak, this is a sauce that transforms.  The flavors coalesce so that even guests who don't think they like cilantro probably will.

1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves with a bit of their stems 1/2 cup capers, plus 2 tablespoons brine 2 tablespoons chopped scallions, white parts only 6 tablespoons olive oil

Combine the cilantro, capers, brine, and scallions in a food processor.  Slowly add the oil and 2 tablespoons water; process until almost smooth.  Add salt and pepper.

Dinner with the Prince at Kyo Ya

Several months ago I helped get a job for the young friend of a man I hardly knew. The young man, a lawyer, turned chef, wanted a career in marketing and branding food concepts to the world. He wasn't sure whether to work for a large corporate public relations company or a boutique market research firm, and his fate, for a short time was in my hands. I like helping people get jobs, making the connection, watching them flourish -- as it had been done, once or twice in my past, for me. There was something special about this young man. He looked and acted like, well...a prince. Elegant as all get out, he had charm, experience, and could talk food as though it was his second language. He even dared correct me at the first breakfast we had with a colleague of mine, a PR guru, also keen on helping burgeoning stars become who they are.

The young man has been at his job three months now and has already created several big food ideas for his clients -- two of them quite brilliant, I might add. But acting like the Prince that he is, he decided to take me to dinner as a "thank you." So, two nights ago I was treated to a dinner sitting face-to-face with one of the city's great sushi masters at Kyo Ya -- located in a hidden gem of a dining room in the East Village. The Prince was at my side, as we sipped a very credible chilled sake, and watched the parade of some of the most exquisitely presented dishes I have ever seen. Sono, the sushi master, had laughing eyes and bewitching hands. He remembered the Prince from the last time he was there and began preparing a series of dishes for us. Watching Sono was watching "poetry in motion," with the grace and reverence one generally reserves for a prima ballerina or anyone who had confidently mastered his craft.

The succession of dishes delighted us, one after the other. The pressed salmon sushi exquisitely formed and presented like jewels. The just-made tofu sat in a broth that tasted so primal that it reminded me of how the great writer Lawrence Durrell described the taste of a black olive -- "a taste older than meat; older than wine. A taste as old as water." Much of the fish came directly from Japan (with a solemn nod to what had transpired there not so long ago), and reminded me of the vastness of the ocean and its inhabitants.

I had more sea urchin that humanly possible in one sitting, and the most extraordinary sheaths of fresh herring dabbed with sweet miso. There was a lidded custard, known as chawanmushi, loaded with snow crab, exotic mushrooms and a discreet cube or two of pork. In another lovely ceramic bowl, was an offering of more sea urchin, salmon, salmon roe and slivers of seaweed in dashi broth. We relished every morsel and gesture. Even the salt played tricks on your tongue.

The experience brought to mind an old Japanese proverb that has informed my cooking for years. "That if you can capture the season on a plate, then you are the master." The Prince had made a very good choice, indeed.

Kyo Ya 94 East 7th Street, New York. 212-982-4140 (a 27 food rating from Zagat)

Papaya Queen

You are all, no doubt, familiar with Papaya King -- the famous stand-up dive known for questionable papaya drinks and hot dogs and such.  Do I sometimes go there? Yes.  Maybe even today as the temperature soars to above 90 degrees.  I am reminded of the place because of an article sent to me from an Israeli newspaper (Ha'aretz) by a friend.  The title?  The Power of Papaya.  The friend?  Gerd Stern.  A renaissance kind of artist-poet-foodie-past President of the American Cheese Society, who is currently finishing an opera and is "artist-in-residence" somewhere in the world as I write this.  The author of the piece, Rachel Talshir, writes that "it is reasonable to assume that people who say they hate papaya just ran into a bad one the first time around."   While I am a huge lover of mangoes (really one of my favorite treats), I do not, as a rule, covet papaya.  Perhaps I ran into a bad one as a kid.  Whereas, my grandparents had a gorgeous old mango tree in their backyard in West Palm Beach (I can still remember the taste from 50 years ago! -- I was very young), papayas were scarce and just not around.  No one talked about them much.  There are several varieties of papaya and they are nutritional powerhouses containing an abundance of vitamin A, B and C, calcium, iron, phosphorus, potassium and folic acid.  Perhaps we should all take another look. Almost ten years ago, in my book Desserts 1-2-3, I created my first recipe using papaya:  Coconut-Glazed Papaya with Papaya-Lime Cream.  And all this using only three ingredients.  As it was written in the headnote, "There are many varieties of papaya available today, but the sexiest and most perfumed is one known as strawberry papaya. Graceful and tapered, about 1 foot long, its meaty flesh is bright reddish-orange.  Cream of coconut is used as a glaze -- which not only sweetens the fruit but blackens a bit under the broiler, imparting a curious flavor note.  It is also used to make the lime-kissed cream.  And if you like the notion of exploiting an ingredient to the max, as I often do, then make a coconut sorbet to top off the whole thing:  mix an additional 1/2 cup cream of coconut with several tablespoons of lime juice and 1/2 cup water and freeze in an ice cream maker."  Recipe below.  In the Israeli newspaper, other ideas using papaya were offered -- as a carpaccio with pistachios, grated hard cheese, lemon and olive oil; as a salsa mixed with pineapple, red onion and red pepper, as a shake (with frozen bananas and cashews) and even as a soup.   I have even toasted the seeds until dry and then pulverized them to use as a "spice" over other tropical fruits.  Crazy, great.

As Ms. Talshir goes on to say, "Papaya's basic influence and its ability to balance the body's acidity noticeably enhance the wakefulness of those who eat it."  An irresistible notion, for sure.

Coconut-Glazed Papaya, Papaya-Lime Cream (from Desserts 1-2-3)

1 large ripe strawberry papaya, about 3-1/2 pounds 1/2 cup cream of coconut 5 large limes

Cut papaya lengthwise into 5 wedges.  Remove seeds and discard.  Remove flesh from one of the wedges and cut into large pieces.  Place in the bowl of a food processor with 1/4 cup cream of coconut.  Great the rind of 2 limes to get zest and add to processor.  Cut limes in half and squeeze to get 6 tablespoons juice.  Add to processor with a pinch of salt.  Process several minutes until very smooth.  Cover and refrigerate until cold.  Preheat broiler:  Pour 1 tablespoon cream of coconut over each papaya wedge to coat completely.  Add a few drops of lime juice.  Slash each across the width into sections, about 1-1/2 inches apart.  Place on a broiler pan and broil several minutes until papaya is glazed and blackened in some spots.  Let cool.  Serve with chilled papaya cream and slices of remaining lime.  Serves 4

A Wild & Wonderful Israeli Dinner

Erez Komarovksy has it all: He revolutionized the food of Israel with his catering company "The Futurist Kitchen" (based on the avant-garde cookbook of the Italian writer F. T. Marinetti) and emboldened Israel's "bread culture" with the country's first sour dough bakery.  He studied at the Cordon Bleu in Paris, learned at the knee of a Kaiseki master in Japan, and lived in San Francisco for five years during the heyday of the California cuisine "movement."  Although influenced by the world's tapestry of cooking, including that of his Polish mother (whose chicken soup was the basis of an extraordinary potage he served at the Beard House -- more about that later), Erez redefined the meaning of Israeli food at the restaurant he opened adjacent to his first bread shop "Lehem Erez."  It was at about this time that I wrote an article for the New York Times about the beginning of this "new cuisine" or Israel's own burgeoning culinary movement.  I affectionately called it Med-Rim cooking and later wrote about Cuisine Baladi -- the cooking of the land (the culinary equivalent, as I see it, of "terroir."  A word the wine industry uses to describe the air, soil, typography and micro-environment which influences the qualities of a wine.)

Today, Erez lives and breathes this notion.  After 10 years at his bakery, he moved to the upper Galilee, to a village overlooking olive groves near the Lebanese border.  There he established the Galilee Cooking School where his improvisational classes are based on foraging in the hills, plucking vegetables from his organic garden, using olive oil from the surrounding villages and cooking in the personal, intimate setting of his home.  (As I'm writing this I am already dreaming of going!)  His food is inspired by indigenous ingredients and local traditions -- Muslim, Druze and Christian, as well as the Jewish traditions that inform Israel's melting pot.  Erez's pot is filled with the wild and wonderful -- wild asparagus, wild mushrooms, and Biblical hyssop which also grows in the wild.

At his sold-out dinner at the James Beard House last Saturday, guests were able to experience Erez's personal cuisine and taste the deeply satisfying flavors of Israel -- both ancient and modern.  "A Very Israeli Soup" as the menu stated was filled with artichokes, lima beans, and Jerusalem artichokes floating in a pool of rich chicken broth (yes, that of his Polish mother -- "you take a chicken," Erez said, "take five carrots, onions....) was simply divine.  As was the stuffed spelt challah that was eaten within moments, an exuberant local lamb dish, charred to perfection, and served with Biblical wheat (freekeh).  A lovely Iraqi onion with lamb and tamarind stuffing, baby peppers brought from Israel, a wonderful garnet fish tartare inked by beet juice, fresh goat ricotta served with apricots and air-dried-then-marinated olives.

Dessert shone with radical simplicity-- with "Red Fruits &  Almond Milk"  and a horn of plenty -- his "Grandmother's Yeast Cake."  All of this washed down with intelligently-paired wines from the award-winning Yarden vineyards of Israel -- from an off-dry Gewruztraminer to a sweet Gerwurz to accompany the cake -- in between? Sauvignon blanc, merlot, and syrah.

It's not easy to orchestrate such a meal in the small kitchen at the Beard House.  I know.  I have cooked three dinners there in my day.  So Erez and his staff did their prep at the wonderful Israeli-inspired restaurant, Taboon, located on 10th avenue and 51st Street.  At Taboon one can also sample the depth's of Israel's culinary awakening.

I will see you there.  At Matat, Chef Erez's cooking school in the Galilee, or one Monday night at Taboon, for food, music and a taste of Israel.

The Recipe that Made Me Famous

While walking through the splendorous Union Square Market yesterday, looking for new arrivals, I noticed small fragrant strawberries and the loveliest asparagus I've seen in a long time.  Those strawberries would wind up in a wonderful dessert I had last night at abc kitchen (located just a few blocks from Union Square) -- a kind of strawberry compote decorated with tiny meringues and topped with a quenelle of sour cream-poppy seed ice cream. But those asparagus, crisp and green and just the size I love -- not too thin and not too thick -- reminded me of  "the recipe that made me famous."  Way back in 1995 when no one was roasting asparagus, except for my friend Arthur Schwartz, nobody, and I mean nobody, was frying capers, except me!  The resulting recipe for "Oven-Roasted Asparagus, Fried Capers" was to appear in Recipes 1-2-3: Fabulous Food Using Only Three Ingredients, published in 1996 by Viking.  The headnote went like this:  In less than ten minutes you can have the most addictive asparagus you've ever encountered. An intense dose of heat keeps these spears green and snappy.  Deep-fried capers add a startling accent.  A wonderful Mediterranean-inspired first course or side dish." (recipe below).  This recipe would come to be a favorite of Ruth Reichl, the restaurant critic of the New York Times.  Fifteen years later, in Radically Simple, I added a fourth ingredient -- fresh bay leaves -- which impart a mysterious perfume.   Just this morning I decided to punch in "roasted asparagus and fried capers" into the humming Google search bar.  There are millions (I exaggerate) of citings for this recipe -- with no mention of me or where the recipe came from.  But now you know.

Some years later, in my book Healthy 1-2-3, I also did something no one had done with asparagus.  For a lovely, and very healthy asparagus and orange salad, I boiled the peelings from the asparagus until they were al dente and topped the salad with my original "asparagus fettuccine" -- for it is exactly what it looked like! Just recently I noticed this idea in a new cookbook.  But now that I've begun a practice of daily "meditation" and reflection, this stuff doesn't bother me at all.  Enjoy!

The Original Recipe for Roasted Asparagus with Fried Capers (from Recipes 1-2-3)

2 pounds medium-size asparagus 4 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 cup large capers, drained

Preheat the oven to 500 degrees.  Trim the stems of the asparagus, cutting off the ends to make even.  Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil on a rimmed baking sheet. Place the asparagus on the pan and coat with the oil.  Sprinkle lightly with salt.  Roast for 8 minutes and transfer to a warm platter.  Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.  Fry the capers for 1 to 2 minutes until crispy.  Pour over the asparagus and pass the pepper mill.  Serves 6

One-Minute Food & Wine Pairings

Last night, I surprised my husband by saying that "cocktails" would be served at 6 p.m.   As this is not our usual practice, it brought some unexpected anticipation.  I totally forgot what I had promised and at the stroke of 6, Michael said, "Oh, I thought we had something planned."   "Oh yes" I said, and quickly scampered to the kitchen.  In one-minute flat, I prepared a feast!  I opened the jar of taramasalata I had sequestered in the fridge, dug out the last five large caperberries from an almost-empty container, sliced a hunk of feta cheese and plucked fresh thyme leaves from my window box.  With it I served glasses of icy cold fino sherry.  It was the PERFECT match!   So here are 15 more ideas for those spontaneous, companion-pleasing times -- or, for unexpected guests.  If you have made any similar discoveries, please do let me know! Here are some one-minute sips and bits:

Champagne with hunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano and small black grapes Sake with iced clams on the half shell and wasabi crackers Vodka with smoked salmon and buttered dark Russian bread Ouzo with stuffed grapes leaves and pistachios Raki with watermelon and feta cheese Off-dry Riesling with prosciutto and melon Rose wine with spanakopita and kalamata olives Beaujolais with hungarian salami and oil-cured olives Sweet vermouth with bresaola and sesame grissini Bourbon with a variety of chilled oysters and unsalted pretzels (my husband's idea) Dry marsala with fennel, pecorino, crusty bread for dipping olive oil Prosecco with affettato (selection of Italian salumi) with slices of warm focaccia Sauternes with pâté de foie gras and brioche toast

Cheers!

Cannoli on the Move

Straight from the lens of my son's camera in San Bruno, California are two winning photos with the caption:  SO BAD, BUT SO GOOD!  Clearly, this is the latest in food truck rage -- not yet seen on the East Coast to my knowledge.  Cannoli!  Specialty filled cannoli to rival the niche marketing of tacos, botanical ice creams, yeasty waffles, summer slushes, and hummus with hubris (the Taim Mobile), for our daily affections.  But the Roamin' Cannoli truck wins my heart. Whereas, cannolo is the correct terminology for a single pastry, cannoli is the name given to two or more pastries.  In that sense, the spelling on the side of the darling cannoli carriage is correct, as there are THREE varieties to choose from.  You can have any flavor for $4 bucks.  The "Not So Traditional" is filled with sweet mascarpone and goat cheese, orange zest, and TCHO dark chocolate chunks.  The "Lemon Meringue" is filled with smooth lemon cream and dried meringue stars.  The "White Raspberry Brulee" is filled with El Rey white chocolate filling, fresh red raspberries and bruleed sugar edges.  According to the empirical evidence, "meringue stars," my son, no doubt chose the "Lemon Meringue."

I am quite certain I would have had the "Not So Traditional."  And Jeremy's grandmother, who lived to be 90, loved cannolis but would not have wanted any of these.  Anne Frieda Whiteman would have opted for a cannolo at Ferrara's in New York's Little Italy.  I read that they make their cannoli shells with red wine -- to impart the requisite hue to the crispy pastry tubes -- whereupon they are filled with a sweet ricotta filling and maybe a dash of almond extract, a few mini chocolate bits or some crushed pistachios.  More than the delicious noodle pudding she used to make (written about by award-winning author Arthur Schwartz in his tome "Jewish Home Cooking: Yiddish Recipes Revisited"), this was the ultimate in sweets.  Anne, who never got use to leaving a message on an answering machine (she called it "the monster"), would certainly not cozy up to a dose of goat cheese in her beloved treat.  (But then again she put corn flakes on her noodle pudding.  Risky business in her day.) Boy do we miss her.

In my first 1-2-3 book, Recipes 1-2-3:  Fabulous Food Using Only Three Ingredients, is a curious recipe for "Cannoli Custard."  I recommend serving it with biscotti for dipping and ice-cold shots of Strega.  Espresso to follow.

Cannoli, by the way, are of Sicilian origin, and in Italy are commonly known as "cannoli Siciliani."  Someday history may tell us they were invented in San Bruno, California.

Thank you, Jeremy, for the photos and the memories and a brand new trend to add to your father's list.

Cannoli Custard (from Recipes 1-2-3)

2 cups part-skim ricotta cheese 9 tablespoons confectioners' sugar 3/4 teaspoon rum extract

Gently whip the ricotta, sugar, and rum extract in the bowl of an electric mixer.  Do not over-mix. Divide equally among 4 martini glasses and chill well.  Sprinkle additional confectioners' sugar, pressed through a sieve, over the top before serving.  Serves 4

Wow, Thanks!

Okay, so once in a while I look at my Amazon reviews.  To date there are 45 reviews for Radically Simple with an average just short of five stars.  And honestly, I don't know more than three of the people who wrote the reviews.  But just this morning (and it's still very early), I gazed upon a review written by someone I want to know!  Written on May 20, 2011, and titled, "Great Weeknight Cookbook," it goes as follows: "I am a grad student, wife, new mom, and teacher so my days are pretty packed but cooking dinner is very important to me.  This cookbook gets five stars because it has so many delicious recipes that can be easily prepared on busy weeknights.  The cookbook also gets five stars because I am a foodie and want to prepare meals that taste complex and are different from the standard fare.  The Poulet au Creme Fraiche in particular was super delicious.  I have made many chicken recipes that call for some variation of cream and mustard, but never had I made chicken that came out so moist and with the skin so crisp and wonderful.  There are a few recipes that call for spice mixtures such as ras el hanout and za'atar and I think these recipes are what some reviewers are complaining about when they say some ingredients are hard to find.  But in reality they are easy to make oneself with spices that normally can be found in a supermarket, buy on-line, or if you live somewhere big enough for a spice shop or international store just buy in person.  I live in a very small town and these spices are always in my pantry.  UPDATE:  I just made the Perciatelli with French Breakfast Radishes, Bacon and Greens.  This was soooooo good, this recipe alone makes the book 5 stars and a must have." 

With many thanks to AnthroWA, she's some busy lady, for taking the time to write a review, and for taking the time to "cook the book."   I haven't made the chicken for awhile so guess what I'm cooking tonight?  And tomorrow?  (Answer: Perciatelli). Poulet au Creme Fraiche (adapted from Radically Simple) Super succulent!  My favorite accompaniments are steamed basmati rice to sop up the juices and a simple salad of watercress and orange dressed with walnut oil.

1 cup creme fraiche 1/4 cup strong French Dijon mustard 1 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, plus more for garnish 1 large garlic clove 3-1/2-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces

Stir together the creme fraiche and mustard in a large bowl.  Add the thyme, garlic pushed through a press, and 1 teaspoon salt.  Add the chicken and mix well.  Set aside at room temperature for 2 hours or up to 6 hours in the refrigerator.  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.  Transfer the chicken, with some of the marinade still clinging, to a rimmed baking sheet.  Roast for 45 minutes, until golden and cooked through.  Serve sprinkled with thyme.  Serves 4

Chive Flowers

Running into Chive Flowers at the Park Slope farmer's market last Saturday was like greeting a long-awaited friend. Every year in late May, I expect to see her spiky lavender hat atop her long spindly green stem, waving to me in the gentle breeze.  At that moment, for I am never sure exactly when she will arrive, I smile inside and sometimes outside, too. I buy a big bunch of chive flowers in anticipation of one of my favorite warm-weather soups:  Cauliflower Vichyssoise with Chive Flowers (and parsley oil).  Yet despite the lack of warmth, or sun, I still run to the store to buy a large cauliflower, vibrant flat-leaf parsley, leeks and light cream, to make a radically simple soup for supper. You may be astounded to know that the beautiful soup in the photo below is made with only six ingredients.  Four for the soup; two for the parsley oil.  This is the supreme example of what radical simplicity in cooking means:  "When things taste of themselves," said the great French gastronome Curnonsky.  It is the philosophy that underscores each dish in Radically Simple -- and all in 140 words or less. Chives are the only species of allium native to both the New and the Old World.  Its name comes from the French word cive, from cepa, the Latin word for onion.  I'm smiling now, too, thinking of how once upon a time, a baked potato with sour cream and chives was the height of sophistication for me as a child.   Having recently seen the remarkable Werner Herzog film, Cave of Forgotten Dreams, about cave paintings dating back 32,000 years in France, makes the 5,000 year old use of chives seem rather modern.  Nonetheless, they have been deployed as both food and medicine since then.   You will find much chatter and many good ideas for cooking with chives and chive flowers at seriouseats.com.  In the following soup, which is classically made from potatoes and leeks, both the chive leaves (straws) are used and the edible flowers pulled apart.  It is a dish of many virtues and healthy as can be.

Cauliflower Vichyssoise with Chive Flowers (adapted from Radically Simple) This more healthful riff on classic vichyssoise is still luxuriously suave.  For a stunning presentation, blanch a bunch of parsley and puree in a blender with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1/4 cup water and salt; add a swirl to each serving to dance on the white velvet background.

2-1/2 pound cauliflower, or 1-3/4 pounds florets 2 large leeks 1 cup light cream 1 bunch chives with chive flowers Break the cauliflower into small pieces and put in a 4-quart pot.  Add 5 cups water (water will not cover the cauliflower) and 2 teaspoons salt.  Chop the white parts of the leeks to get 1-1/2 cups.  Wash well; add to the pot.  Bring to a rapid boil; reduce the heat to medium.  Cover and cook until the vegetables are very soft, about 24 minutes.  Cool 5 minutes.  In 2 batches, puree in a food processor until ultra smooth, adding 1/2 cup cream to each batch.  Transfer to a bowl; add salt and pepper.  Cover; refrigerate until very cold.  Add water or additional cream if too thick.  Garnish with chopped chives and flowers, and optional parsley oil.  Serves 6

My Lunch Companions

Here we are at Junior's having a great time.  The kids all made some healthy food choices and brought any extra food home. Instead of soda, they ordered juice or iced tea and everyone had a fresh green salad or fruit salad that came in a very large goblet.  Yum. With some good luck ahead, these beautiful children may all find wonderful homes.

The folks at Junior's also felt inspired by the day and treated us to lunch.  Many thanks to Colette and Mr. Allen Fleming for making everybody feel very special.  In addition to my lunch bunch, the guests included Laurie Sherman Graff, the director of Heart Gallery, the angels at HeartShare, and many of the foster moms.

Every child received an autographed book of his or her choice.  Eat Fresh Food or Kids Cook 1-2-3.  One wonderful young man, aged 21, who sadly placed out of foster care (he never found a home) is now in college and just found his own home -- a nice studio apartment.  His dream is to become a big event planner and I know he will reach his goal.  He's elegant, classy, and was a big help with the kids that afternoon.  Can't wait to help him find an internship this summer.  And I know just the person to ask!  (Preston Bailey, expect a phone call from me!)

Now, I'm cooking up a storm this morning for an all-day photo shoot for Lenox.  It's wine-and-food pairing day.  The recipes will be available on their site next week. Have a great weekend!

Celebrity Photographers (and me) Celebrate Foster Kids

I'm on my way to a special press conference launching the Brooklyn opening of Heart Gallery NYC in honor of National Foster Care Month.  Marty Markowitz, Brooklyn Borough President, will proclaim May 18th, 2011 as Heart Gallery NYC Day in Brooklyn.  This extraordinary non-profit, headed by Laurie Sherman Graff, combines the artistic talents of notable photographers with children in need of families and a place to call home.   At Brooklyn's Atlantic Terminal, the Long Island Rail Road will host a large scale installation of 50 such photos -- capturing the heart and spirit of these kids -- to inspire potential adoptive families.  There are more than 15,000 foster children living in New York City.  Together with HeartShare Human Services of New York, the NYC Administration for Children Services, and the President of the LIRR, I will join six of the city's foster children to entice families to become adoptive parents.  There will be opportunities for the media to interview the children, the celebrity photographers, the Heart Gallery staff, and listen to some of the guest speakers:  I am honored to be one of them.  Just 3-1/2 years ago we became adoptive parents to an 11 year old girl.  Ushering an older child into, and through, her adolescent years brings lots of challenges, but my husband and I have never been happier, nor more alive, nor more certain that life is deeper and richer for it. In the parlance of Heart Gallery, we have become a "forever family."  If I can inspire even one family today to take action, I will be more than satisfied. After the program, I will whisk the kids off to Junior's for lunch to celebrate the day. We will talk about how to make healthy food choices wherever they go and I will sign copies of two of my cookbooks -- Kids Cook 1-2-3 and Eat Fresh Food: Awesome Recipes for Teen Chefs  for them.  My lunch companions will range in age from 4 to 15 (unless the Borough President plans to join us!) What fun!  In addition to eating a delicious meal, we will chat about respecting food and ourselves (and how interdependent they are), and enjoy the lost art of having a conversation around the table.  Heart Gallery's unique project, A Home for Kids, will be on display from May 18th through June 15th.  Dedicated to raising awareness of children in foster care, the message to all New Yorkers is that it is possible to change the direction of a child's life and thereby enrich your own.  Take a look at their website to read about the many success stories, to see the beautiful faces of these kids, and to be wowed by the list of celebrated photographers, including Amy Arbus (daughter of the renowned Diane Arbus) who have made so many "forever families" a reality.

The Un-Critic

In the midst of a week of much exuberance, I experienced three of the worst restaurant experiences I've ever had.  Strange that they were bunched together in this way, after decades of mostly wonderful meals, but an unwished-for prophesy is beginning to bear fruit.  As I began this blog over six months ago, I vowed never to be "critical" of people, places or things --restaurants and food, included.  It is simply not my wont; I am not a critic.  Rather, I want to celebrate the creativity of others and share as many positive experiences as I can. But my premonition -- that the nexus of young bloggers (passionate but not informed), vaunted celebrity chefs (whose glory can blind even the most fastidious reviewer), and food as "performance art" -- would all lead to the culinary equivalent of the "Emperor's new clothes," leaving us scratching our heads to what we were seeing, or, in this case, eating.  But it is difficult not to feel defeated at a new-ish restaurant in Fort Greene, Brooklyn where the food is so over-hyped and inferior as to make you quit after the first course. Or the 4-star French chef's bistro in midtown where we were kept waiting for our lunch for 1-1/2 hours and could not get anyone's attention for most of that time.  When the food finally did arrive, it was placed in front of the wrong people, and we never saw our waiter again.  Or, the newly opened three-star restaurant of one of city's celebrated chefs who rarely puts a foot in his kitchen and whose food is so expensive and overwrought as to make us depressed.  I don't remember a single thing I ate that night we entertained our friends -- none of the food was recognizable -- and I felt compelled to apologize for that particular restaurant choice.   As a restaurant consultant (not critic) for more than three decades, I am generally the cheerleader at the head of the table, waving a pom-pom for each creative act or thoughtful morsel.  I love culinary intelligence and whimsy, I love when chefs riff on history, but most of all, I value authenticity and simplicity.

The good news is that I had some wonderful food experiences this week, too:  A rare-for-me press dinner at A Voce (intelligently prepared by chef Missy Robbins) and, a lovely picnic my daughter made for us to eat at intermission of the 5-1/2 hour simulcast of  Wagner's Die Walkure at the Brooklyn Academy of Music.   I'm smiling.  It wasn't that long ago that the legendary Joe Baum, restaurateur extraordinaire, would say, "No one knows what a danish tastes like anymore."   I fear "the death of gastronomy," for it is one of the greatest cultural institutions ever bestowed upon us -- and certainly the most pleasurable.

Women with Beards

There is much chatter about women in the restaurant industry or, rather, the lack of them.  Since my early days as one of the few women chefs in New York (late 1970's/early 1980's), this has been a subject that rears its head every few years.  Has the glass ceiling been shattered?  Have women earned a competitive place alongside their male peers in upscale restaurants?  Is it possible to differentiate food created by women from that of  men?   It depends who you ask, but swirling speculation and empirical evidence aside, Monday night's James Beard Awards showcased women in the brightest of lights.   A terrific article by Sumathi Reddy in the Wall Street Journal, posted moments after the awards, summed up the "women wins":  Gabrielle Hamilton, the chef of Prune (in New York's east village); Saipin Chutima of Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas (best chef Southwest), Andrea Reusing of Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina (best chef Southeast), Angela Pinkerton of Eleven Madison Park in New York City (outstanding pastry chef), and in the wine category, Belinda Chang of Danny Meyer's Modern (outstanding wine service).

With a note of sarcasm in her acceptance speech, Ms. Hamilton said "Wow, I didn't know you could win a Beard Award for opening a can of sardines and serving it with Triscuits."  Hmmmm.  Would a guy say that? Prune has a one-star rating from the New York Times as opposed to the numerous two and three-star offerings from the other nominees, including the very awesome April Bloomfield -- whose simple brilliance is in evidence at the Breslin, the John Dory, and the Spotted Pig daily.  But a perusal of all the restaurant and chef categories at the Awards shows some statistical shortcomings.  Out of five choices in each category, there was only one woman, Barbara Lynch of Menton in Boston, who was a nominee for Best New Restaurant.  One woman, Suzanne Goin of Lucques in Los Angeles, for Outstanding Chef Award, one woman as Rising Star Chef -- Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar, and, out of 50 nominees for regional best chefs, there were only six women* represented.  And true to the industry's norm, there were three women out of five nominated for Outstanding Pastry Chef Award.

Many more women (including me) were represented at the media and book awards and there were lots of women "guest chefs" cooking for the receptions.  And there were wonderful women chefs on stage, including Traci des Jardins and Susan Feniger, and major kudos to Emily Luchetti who organized the entire outstanding event. As past president and a member (for three decades!) of the first professional organization of women in food, wine and hospitality, Les Dames d'Escoffier, I can faithfully say that we've come a long way yet still have a long way to go.   But first we must continue to celebrate the industry's extraordinary women -- for our contributions are womanfold.

*Krista Kern Desjarlais of Bresca in Portland, Maine; Maricel Presilla for Cucharamama in Hoboken, New Jersey; April Bloomfield, The Spotted Pig in New York City; were nominated, three of the six won in their categories.

And The Winner Is...

There are many reasons to enjoy the James Beard Awards.  The big one, held last night at Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall, is a tribute to the hospitality industry, to its star chefs and sommeliers, to the country's best new restaurants and most beloved older ones; to lifetime achievement awards, and to those who are feeding our planet in deeply nourishing ways -- from Farmer Lee, to the guiding lights behind FareStart, a Seattle-based nonprofit that provides culinary job training and placement for homeless and disadvantaged individuals, who deservedly won this year's Humanitarian Award.  It is also a nod to the ingenuity of the many chefs who fed the thousands of us last night, cocktail-party style, with an impressive assemblage of sophisticated and delicious small bites reflecting the "melting pot" that now defines us.  I drank the best tequila I ever had, tried a kickass rose wine from Bedell Cellars, and sipped a supple grenacha from Spain between breaks.

It's a long night, after all, "the Oscars" of the food world.   There was a sense of jubilation all evening, but for me, one of the most anticipated categories was best new restaurant.   And the winner?...ABC Kitchen!  I was thrilled as it was my favorite new restaurant this year.  I have been dozens of times, experiencing something delicious and also intangible each time. As a farm-to table restaurant with the majority of its ingredients coming from nearby farms,  it is the mission that drives the food -- green in every way imaginable -- done in contradictory elegance and sophistication. While Jean-Georges, whose restaurant it is, has always been my hero, ABC's chef, Dan Kluger, is an up-and-coming star.  He is the very best of the new generation of chefs -- tattoo-less in fact -- centered, smart, and affable, who possesses an amazing palate.  Dan runs counter to the 'bad-boy' persona of so many young chefs today because he possesses real confidence and skill.  He's a breath of fresh air.

But the real creative spirits behind the restaurant are, in fact, Paulette Cole and Amy Chender, who intuited the food world's next step and conjured up a magical dining room to showcase the artistry of the planet -- from its natural resources to its edible gifts.  Paulette is the stunning visionary behind abc home and Amy is its beautiful COO.  They are mindful of the earth and continue to foster the majesty of Dan's food.  Their mission statement, running the entire length of the back of the menu, should be required reading.   I am so pleased for them.  And for Dan.  But hey, reservations may be hard to come by.

Edible Manhattan & Edible Brooklyn

It is always fabulous to win anything.  But sometimes being nominated is just as good.  Last night at the James Beard Awards, the real thrill came from being in the company of David Tanis' cookbook Heart of the Artichoke and Amanda Hesser's New York Times Cookbook.  I am a huge fan of David's (the chef at Chez Panisse who lives part of the year in Paris) and we met each other for the first time last night.  Another thrill.  But it was the New York Times cookbook that won. Another winner last night was Edible Magazine -- a community of many magazines now featured all over America.  They are beautifully designed, locally inspired, and extremely successful.   The May/June 2011 issue features a 6-page story about...me.  I saw my first issue just a few hours before the Beard awards and am now especially honored to be in this new "award-winning" mag.  Known as the Eat, Drink, Local issue called "Looking Back, Looking Forward," it features many locavore pioneers -- Peter Hoffman from Savoy restaurant, Rick Bishop ("Chef Charmer"), whose farmer's market produce is the most highly prized, and the tastemaker story about me, warmingly subtitled: "her shining palate sparked some of the city's brightest culinary trends."  Since it is the "local" issue, the story focused on my time as chef at Gracie Mansion, as the chef-consultant to the Rainbow Room and Windows on the World, and about the creation of the three-star Hudson River Club and the ensuing concept of "Hudson Valley cuisine."

I want to take a moment to personally thank Nancy Matsumoto, the writer of the story, who so rigorously wove together a 35-year career with such care, thought, and insight, and did so in her signature graceful style.  Thanks, too, to Gabrielle Langholtz, the magazine's formidable editor, whose idea it was to do it! The Edible community of magazines gives you a behind-the-scenes look at the local food culture that you won't find anywhere else.  In New York alone, there is Edible Manhattan, Edible Brooklyn and Edible Eastend.  Talk about niche food passions!   I, for one, am running to the farmer's market up the street from my house -- at Grand Army Plaza -- on this spectacular morning, to celebrate the bounty of New York and the joy of all things edible. Will you be there?

Award-Winning Veal Chops

This Friday night marks the much-anticipated James Beard Awards for television, media, and books!  Radically Simple: Brilliant Flavors with Breathtaking Ease is nominated for best cookbook in the general cooking category.  I am honored and delighted and look forward to sharing the evening with many friends in the food world (a world that may also reach 1 billion people in the next few years -- thanks to the Internet!)  The philosophy of the book, in case you didn't know, is to bring simply elegant "restaurant food" to the home cook in 140 words or less.  Each recipe reflects a balance of time, ease of preparation, and number of ingredients.  As with all my books (this is the 12th), superlative ingredients are the hallmark of each dish, and simplicity is key.  As a professional chef for more than 30 years (yikes!), I bring a bit of "chef thinking" to each dish and help you discreetly combine interesting new flavors and techniques. In today's food section of the New York Times is a dish that prompted me to share one of my radically simple dishes with you.  As a fan of Melissa Clark, who writes the column "A Good Appetite," I was attracted to a recipe for lamb chops with capers, anchovies and sage.  It's stunning simplicity -- with its whole leaf of fresh sage encrusted on top -- had me immediately turn to my own "Veal Chops with Sage Butter, Sunflower Seeds & Beet Drizzle."   Although I don't make veal very often at home (there are four veal recipes in the book), I do on occasion, splurge and enjoy.  This is one recipe I know you will, too.  Served with a side dish of sauteed peppers with golden raisins and arugula, it is a study in nature's own color palate.

Veal chops, below.  For the side dish, you might want to buy the book!  (smile).   Big thick veal chops became the sine qua non of chic in the early 1980's on the upper east side and in some of the city's more swank Italian restaurants.  For those of you who remember Hoexter's Market, it was their 2-inch thick juicy grilled veal chop that was all-the-rage (ditto their garlic bread covered with gorgonzola sauce.)  It makes me hunger for the good old days -- when James Beard could still be found eating in some of the city's best.

Veal Chops with Sage Butter, Sunflower Seeds & Beet Drizzle

3/4 cup chopped canned beets 2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar 4 tablespoons olive oil 4 thick loin veal chops, about 9 ounces each 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 12 large fresh sage leaves 1/4 cup toasted sunflower seeds

Place the beets, 1 tablespoon vinegar, 3 tablespoons of the olive oil, and 1/4 cup water in a food processor.  Process until very smooth.  Set aside.  Season the chops with salt and pepper.  Heat the butter and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet large enough to hold the chops in one layer.  Sear the chops over high heat until browned on one side, about 4 minutes.  Place 3 sage leaves on the uncooked side of each chop and turn over.  Cook over high heat until browned on the second side, 3 to 4 minutes longer.  Add the remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar to the pan and cook 15 seconds.  Transfer the chops and pan juices to plates.  Serve chops, sage-side up, sprinkled with sunflower seeds and drizzled with beet dressing.   Serves 4

Long Island Merlot (and Wine-Dark Short Ribs!)

Last week I was asked to be a judge at a merlot wine tasting and dinner sponsored by the Long Island Merlot Alliance. As a fan of the efforts of Long Island winemakers and their wines since the late 1970's, I served them when I was the chef at Gracie Mansion in 1979 (specifically those from Hargrave Vineyards and Lenz Winery).  Now, at City Winery on Varick Street, I was in the company of a cadre of esteemed wine writers, including Howard Goldberg from the New York Times, Joshua Greene, publisher of Wine & Spirits, Robin Kelley O'Connor from Christie's, and Patricia Savoie from the Wine Media Guild.

While we thought the task at hand was to rate 14 merlots from Long Island, there were seven "decoys" from France and California in the mix. The results showed that few could identify the French and California wines. This amused a handful of us and it showed the promise of Long Island's viticulture, making those seven merlots (and several of the winemakers present) very proud.  I particularly enjoyed a merlot from McCall Vineyard from the North Fork known as Ben's Blend ($45) and also a Merlot Reserve from Castello di Borghese, also from the North Fork ($29).  The wine that took first place (from both the afternoon and evening tastings) was the Wölffer Estate Vineyard Christian's Cuvee Merlot (The Hamptons) at $100 a bottle.  (Who knew?)   All the wines were from the 2007 vintage. The spread between the top wine (Wölffer) was 86.86 and the last (Chateau La Croix Saint-Georges from St. Emilion) was 82.96; narrow indeed.

Dinner was lovely, especially the company.  I was seated next to the beautiful Ann-Marie Borghese (from Castello di Borghese) who is the last person you'd ever expect to see at New York's farmer's markets four days a week pouring her wines.  I can't wait until she comes to the Park Slope market up the street from our house in Grand Army Plaza at the end of May.  All in all, it was a great evening for Long Island, for merlot (which I tend not to cozy up to), and for the wonderful tradition of blind tastings, good food and conversation.

Great partners?  Merlot and wine-dark short ribs.  Here's the recipe from my Recipes 1-2-3 Menu Cookbook.  It has a secret ingredient (hoisin!) which makes it really delicious and radically simple to prepare.  A votre sante. Wine-Dark Short Ribs Serve with your favorite mashed potatoes or with brown rice studded with sun-dried cherries.

4 pounds short ribs, cut between the bones (cut in half across the bone, if desired) 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce 2 cups merlot

Place the ribs, 1/2 cup hoisin, and 1 cup merlot in a large, nonreactive bowl.  Cover and marinate overnight in the refrigerator.  Remove ribs from marinade.  Transfer the marinade to a heavy pot large enough to hold the ribs in one layer.  Add 3 cups water, the ribs, and lots of freshly ground black pepper.  Cover and cook slowly over low heat for 2-1/2 hours, turning several times during cooking.  Meanwhile, place remaining cup of merlot and 2 tablespoons hoisin in a small saucepan.  Bring to a boil, lower heat and reduce until 1/2 cup. Set aside.  When tender, remove short ribs with a slotted spoon.  Bring liquid to a boil and cook until thick and syrupy.  Whisk in enough of the reserved wine reduction until you have a well-balanced sauce.  Add salt to taste.  Pour sauce over ribs and serve immediately.  Serves 4

The Royal Wedding

I surprised myself this morning by waking up at 5:10 a.m. to watch the Royal Wedding.  Transfixed for more than two hours, I found it a glorious tribute to tradition and ritual. The playfulness and respect between Harry and William was the most extraordinary homage to their mother.  The chorale music was beautiful; the shining sun remarkable, the quiet resplendence of Catherine and William was really perfect.  Sweet and sacred at the same time.  I have no idea what the Queen is actually serving this afternoon at her champagne reception, but I offer you a few British treats:  a delectable oatmeal scone taught to me by my brilliant lawyer friend, Joanne Rosen (whose daughter is studying in London as we speak -- perhaps she's in Hyde Park watching the wedding), and two favorite tea sandwiches which I invented awhile back for Bon Appetit. I recommend a glass, or two, of Bollinger today.  It's our favorite and we like it slightly aged, just like the Brits do.  This morning, I served my daughter cinnamon-toast and sugared strawberries for breakfast and pretended the yogurt was "clotted cream."  We joked about finding out which boarding school the new Duchess of Cambridge went to.   But I assured her that Prince Charming might be right here in Park Slope.   Perhaps he'll come for tea. Oatmeal Currant Scones with Clotted Cream

The best scones I ever had were made by my friend Joanne Rosen, lawyer and baker extraordinaire.  I begged her for her recipe and adapted it slightly.  Thank you Joanne!

1-1/3 to 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting board 1 cup old-fashioned oatmeal 2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons sugar 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold 1 large egg, beaten 1/2 cup buttermilk, cold 1/3 cup currants

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  In food processor, mix flour, oatmeal, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Process until oatmeal is coarsely ground. Cut butter into small pieces and add.  Pulse a few times until mixture looks like fine meal. Transfer to a bowl.    Mix beaten egg and buttermilk together and add to flour. Incorporate with a fork. When dough just comes together, add currants and mix until sticky dough forms. Turn dough out onto floured surface.  Using floured hands knead the dough and pat into a circle that is ¾ inch thick.  (If dough is still sticky, lightly flour top of circle.) Use a 1-1/2 round biscuit cutter to cut out 20 scones.  Flour the cutter and your hands as you go along. Re-form scraps of dough to make rest of scones, being careful not to overwork or add too much extra flour. Lightly glaze tops of scones with a little beaten egg yolk, or sprinkle with sugar or leave plain. Place scones on lightly floured cookie sheet and bake 18 minutes.  Makes about 20

Smoked Salmon-Wasabi Tea Sandwiches

16 ounces cream cheese 2 tablespoons wasabi powder 12 ounces best-quality smoked salmon, thinly sliced 12 slices very-thin whole wheat bread 3 lemons 1 bunch cilantro

Place cream cheese in a bowl and let it come to room temperature.  Mix wasabi with 4 teaspoons water until it becomes a thick paste.  Mix this into cream cheese and using a fork, stir to incorporate completely.  Place bread on a large board.  Spread each slice with a layer of wasabi cream cheese.  Place smoked salmon on top of 6 slices in one neat layer, being sure to cover the entire surface of the bread. Grate rind of lemons and sprinkle over salmon.  Cut cilantro into fine julienne and scatter over the salmon.  Top with bread, cream cheese side down, and press down lightly.  Wrap each sandwich in a paper towel. Place on top of each other in the refrigerator.  Refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.  Trim crusts and cut each into 4 triangles.  Place cut side up. To decorate:  Garnish with small sprigs of cilantro and sprinkle grated lemon zest over sandwiches.  Makes 24

Cucumber, Radish and Watercress Sandwiches with Goat Cheese

2 large long thin cucumbers, about 10 ounces each 12 ounces goat cheese 2 bunches watercress 1-1/2 - 2 teaspoons white truffle oil 2 bunches large radishes 12 slices thin good-quality white bread

Peel cucumbers and slice paper thin. Set aside.  Place goat cheese in bowl of food processor.  Chop enough leaves of watercress to get 3/4 packed cup.  Add to processor with truffle oil and process until just incorporated.  Do not overprocess. Spread each slice of bread with goat cheese-watercress mixture.  Slice radishes paper-thin.   Cover 6 slices of bread in overlapping pattern with radishes.  Top with layer of sliced cucumbers. Sprinkle with freshly grated black pepper.  Cover with slice of bread, cheese side down, and press lightly.  Wrap each sandwich in a paper towel and place stacked in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours.  Unwrap. Trim crusts and cut each sandwich into 4 squares. To decorate:  Place a very thin slice of radish on top of each sandwich.  Garnish with sprigs of watercress. Makes 24

The Best Thing She Ever Ate

About one month ago, I received a very special email from a stranger whom I now consider a loyal friend.  She found me through my website and took the time to write. And what did she say?

Chef Gold: I am fairly sure the subject dish featured in a recent Bon Appetit is not only the best thing I have ever made (in +40 years of cooking), it may be the best thing I've ever eaten. Bravo!

It made me smile. I'm still smiling and decided to share this recipe with you. It originally appeared in the March issue of Bon Appetit in an article I wrote about baked pastas. It is a riff on the Greek dish "Pastistio." According to Peter Minakis who writes a web-column called "Greek Food & Beyond," pastistio is the Greek form of the Italian word pasticcio, which means hodgepodge (among other things).  It is simply a baked pasta dish whose three components include: the pasta (often bucatini), a meat sauce (a classic Bolognese finished with a pinch of cinnamon-- a must), and bechamel (a thick creamy sauce made from butter, flour, milk, eggs and cheese.)

Like the traditional Greek pastistio, my version has a bit of cinnamon in it, but I ramp up the flavors with the addition of ras el hanout (an aromatic spice blend popular in Morocco), cumin, and dried mint -- a hallmark of many Moroccan dishes. This can be assembled and baked early in the day and reheated before serving. (Bake uncovered at 375 degrees for 18 minutes.) Try one of the terrific Greek wines (white or red) now available in many wine stores.

I raise a glass to Mary Bowler of Southfield, MI, for her lovely note. Keep in touch!

Morrocan-Inspired “Pastistio” with Spicy Lamb & Cinnamon

2 tablespoons olive oil 1 heaping cup finely diced red onion 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 1-1/2 tablespoons ras el hanout 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 pound ground lamb 28-ounces plum tomatoes in puree 2 tablespoons dried mint leaves 8 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 tablespoons flour 3 cups milk 6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled 3 eggs, separated 1  pound  penne rigate ½ cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano

Heat oil in a very large skillet.  Add onions and garlic and cook over high heat 5 minutes until soft.  Add lamb and cook 5 minutes until just cooked through.  Add tomatoes, ras el hanout, cinnamon, mint, and all but 1/2 teaspoon cumin.  Bring to a boil, stirring, lower heat and simmer 20 minutes until thick.  Add salt and pepper to taste

Meanwhile, melt 6 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan over medium heat.  Whisk in flour, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes, stirring constantly.  Bring milk just to a boil in another saucepan.  Slowly add hot milk to flour mixture, whisking constantly until smooth.  Bring just to a boil, then simmer several minutes until thick.  Remove from heat.  Stir in feta, egg yolks and remaining cumin.   Whisk 1 minute until yolks “cook.”  Season with salt and pepper.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Add pasta and cook until just tender, about 12 minutes.  Drain pasta well and transfer to large bowl.  Add 2 tablespoons butter, egg whites and 1/4 cup grated parmesan.  Arrange 1/2 pasta in a deep 9-x-12 inch lasagna pan.  Spread the lamb sauce over pasta.  Top with remaining pasta and press firmly.  Spoon white sauce on top and sprinkle with remaining parmesan.    Bake 40 minutes until bubbly.   Serves 8

Food News & Views

Saturday night we had a fabulous time eating dinner with David Rosengarten at his home with 10 guests from France (including the COO of the famed Dorcester Hotel Group --the Plaza-Athenee, Bel-Aire Hotel, Le Meurice, Beverly Wilshire, the Palace -- you get the idea) and his friend Sylvia Golden who is his business partner.  Not only was the town house one of New York's most beautiful, but the food that night, the most deliciously incongruous.  As many of you know, David Rosengarten is one of the most esteemed foodies in America.  As author of The Dean & DeLuca Cookbook (one of my favorites) and several others, including David Rosengarten Entertains: Fabulous Parties for Food Lovers, he was one of the Food Network's first stars beginning with the trendy show, "Food News & Views," which he hosted with Donna Hanover. (I was a guest on the very first show!) Later, David hosted the award-winning program "Taste."  This particular evening, David wanted to treat his Gallic friends (including a handful of children) to a very decidedly American dinner. In that spirit, we began with tequila-based Bloody Marys (into which a celery stalk and a pickled okra was inserted), oyster shooters, the most amazing crab cakes, the size of softballs, adorned with chipotle mayonnaise and a winning slaw with a background of cumin.  Although we were only twelve, there were two styles of brisket, smoked ribs, carrot pudding, half-a-dozen barbecue sauces, homemade potato chips, and dozens of wines including a Kistler Chardonnay and several credible reds from Long Island.  (In 1980, I "smuggled" a bottle of Kistler in my handbag back from a trip to California.  It had still not arrived on the East Coast and I was sure this was going to be a contender in California's burgeoning wine portfolio.)

For dessert, we had what David considers the best rum cake made in America (will get you the info soon) and our contribution which was a restaurant size cheesecake from Juniors (not so far from where we live.)  There was enough cheesecake to feed all of Paris (they eat small portions) and it was a huge hit.  In our neck of the woods, a cheesecake from Juniors is considered a locavore food! Francois, the COO, brought Sylvia (the evening's host) copies of several of Alain Ducasse's cookbooks -- Ducasse's restaurants are housed in several of the company's hotels.  Ducasse's newest book is not yet available in America and is as impressive as the new Noma cookbook (Rene Redzepi, Noma's chef, was voted the world's best chef this year.)  There was lots of talk about the hotel world, food world, about Paris and Morocco, about India, and most interesting for us, David's upcoming new business ventures --  including, hopefully, a new tv show. More about that as it unfolds but, for now, I will ask David to share his sources.  You won't want to miss the rum cake, brisket, and David's favorite barbecue sauce. The New York Times once said of David..."He explores his subjects so thoroughly that he makes instant  experts of his viewers." Ditto, his dinner guests.