Big Juicy Sun-dried Tomato Burger

These days, hamburger meat has gone gourmet, so your market may offer upscale blends of ground chuck and brisket, or ground chuck and short rib meat. Experiment if you wish, or use your own combination of chuck and sirloin. The secret flavor and juiciness comes from grated onion pulp. Garnish as you wish: With slices of juicy tomatoes, fresh basil and a gob of gooey cheese -- your choice. I'm into using havarti these days or take your taste buds in a different direction with thin slices of Bucheron goat cheese. Open a big zinfandel and keep the burgers rare to medium-rare.

3-1/2 pounds ground beef (not lean) 14 ounces sun-dried tomatoes in olive oil 1 large yellow onion 1/4 cup finely minced fresh basil 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 8 kaiser rolls or your favorite bread or focaccia 8 thin slices of cheese, sliced tomatoes, fresh basil leaves

Put the beef in a large bowl. Drain the sun-dried tomatoes; reserving 2 tablespoons of the oil. Chop the tomatoes into very small pieces to get 1-1/3 cups and add to the bowl. Cut the onion in half; grate on the large holes of a box grater. Add 1/2 cup grated onion pulp and juice to the bowl. Add the reserved tomato oil, basil, cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt and lots of freshly ground black pepper. Use your hands to blend; do not overmix. Form the mixture into 8 thick patties. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Grill or broil the burgers about 3 minutes on each side for medium-rare. Splash with balsamic vinegar and top with cheese, sliced tomatoes and basil. Serve on toasted rolls. Makes 8

Years ago at a fancy butcher shop, I noticed a cut of meat that was new to me. Piled high in the brightly lit case, was a stack of triangular-shaped mounds of beef, known as trip-tip fillets, tri-tip roasts, or beef triangles. They "sit" at the bottom of the sirloin, weigh 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 pounds, and are about two inches thick. Flavorful, but lean, they are best eaten rare so that the juices trickle down your chin. I created a recipe for Bon Appetit using this cut and was reminded of it this weekend. On our way to see the spectacular Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center, we walked through the retail spaces level with the ice skating rink. New to us was a fast/casual restaurant called Tri-Tip Grill, featuring none other than this heretofore obscure hunk of meat. It seems that this cut is very popular in California and newer to East coast folks. The restaurant, too, had its origins in California and has only recently attracted attention in New York. Whereas a tri-tip fillet will never satisfy in the same way that a game-y aged rib-eye or velvety filet mignon might, it is a great cut to use for the holidays: fulfilling the promise of abundance without the financial burden. Why not buy a pair of tri-tips and invite a few neighbors for a holiday dinner this week? Serve the juicy rare steak slices with a sweet potato puree flecked with fresh ginger and a hint of freshly-squeezed tangerine juice. Then stir-fry a wok-ful of sugar snap peas tossed with tiny cubes of bacon and radish -- cut the same size so that they "mimic" each other. All will come together in a harmonious triptych of flavors textures, and color. A tri-tip triptych! Not easy to say three-times quickly.

A trickle of "hot" Chinese mustard will light up your taste buds. If you don't want to make your own, now's a good time to gather all those little takeout packets lurking in your fridge.

Tri-Tip Filet in Soy & Red Wine with "Chinese Mustard"

2 pound trip-tip beef fillet 1/3 cup dry red wine 2 tablespoons soy sauce 3 cloves garlic, very finely minced 2-1/2 tablespoons dry mustard 3 bunches scallions 12 ounces baby portabello mushrooms 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons honey

Put tri-tip in a shallow bowl. Whisk together wine, soy sauce, garlic and 1/2 tablespoon dry mustard. Pour over meat. Let sit 30 minutes at room temperature, turning meat often. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together 2 tablespoons dry mustard, 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons cold water and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Whisk until smooth. Let sit. Remove roots and dark green parts of scallions and discard. Cut scallions in half lengthwise. Trim mushrooms and wipe with a damp cloth. Put scallions and mushrooms on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and toss until vegetables are coated. Sprinkle lightly with salt. Remove meat from marinade. Pat dry with paper towels. Season meat with salt and pepper. Put meat on baking sheet, with scallions and mushrooms arranged around meat. Roast for 12 minutes, turn meat and vegetables over and cook 10 minutes longer, until an instant-read thermometer registers 125 degrees for rare. Transfer meat to cutting board and let rest 10 minutes. Cut in 1/4-inch thick slices. Serve with scallions, mushrooms, and any pan juices. Drizzle with Chinese mustard. Serves 4